A recent report by Sustainabelle Advisory Services, supported by Kering and the Laudes Foundation, delves into the current and future landscape of material innovations in the fashion industry. Titled “Next Gen to This Gen: Scaling Material Innovations in the Fashion Sector,” the report gathers insights from 62 expert interviews and feedback from 157 stakeholders to offer a comprehensive overview of the sector’s challenges and advancements.
The report defines “Next Gen” material innovations as renewable materials and processes with the potential to revolutionize the fashion industry by reducing reliance on finite resources like petroleum, land, and water. These innovations prioritize human health, rights, and animal welfare, while promoting circular production methods for a more sustainable and ethical approach to fashion manufacturing.
While some material innovators have faced setbacks despite significant investments, there have been notable successes signaling progress. Companies like Infinited Fiber Company and H&M have made significant strides in advancing Next Gen materials. Renewcell, now Circulose under Swedish investment firm Altor, has also marked a positive turnaround. Notable product launches in 2023 include collaborations between LanzaTech and Adidas, Levi Strauss & Co. and Nature Coatings, and Karl Lagerfeld’s introduction of NFW’s 100% plastic-free MIRUM material.
Driving innovation in the fashion sector are factors like regulation and ambitious impact targets, which are pushing the adoption of Next Gen materials. The industry is already equipped with the necessary technologies, with hundreds of innovators offering proven solutions. Stakeholders are actively investing in these materials, recognizing their importance in achieving both impact and business objectives.
Despite challenges such as high costs and performance issues, stakeholders recommend concrete actions to overcome these obstacles. Strategies include considering product life cycle costs, using internal carbon taxes to incentivize sustainable decisions, and decoupling premiums from procurement costs. By addressing these challenges with targeted solutions, the fashion industry can make significant progress in integrating Next Gen materials into mainstream production.
The report identifies three critical “unlocks” to accelerate the adoption of Next Gen materials: relationships, incentives, and policy. Strong relationships within brands and supplier partners, redefining key performance indicators, and communicating industry needs to policymakers are essential for success. Priority areas for creating a scalable pathway for Next Gen material innovations include information creation and standardization, optimizing research and development, and addressing funding challenges.
As sustainability-linked legislation becomes more prevalent globally and consumers seek sustainable products, Next Gen materials will play a crucial role in helping brands meet their environmental goals. With a large portion of a product’s environmental impact determined at the design phase, integrating innovative materials and dyes will be key to achieving sustainability targets.
Sustainabelle’s report offers detailed insights and recommendations to guide the fashion industry towards sustainable innovation and broader adoption of Next Gen materials.